While many sewer problems can be repaired, some situations require full line replacement. This is often necessary when pipes are severely collapsed, heavily corroded, or repeatedly failing despite prior repairs.
A professional inspection allows our team to assess:
If replacement is recommended, we provide clear options, upfront pricing, and solutions designed for long-term reliability.
In the past, sewer line repairs often meant extensive digging. Today, trenchless sewer repair methods allow many damaged lines to be repaired or replaced with far less disruption to your yard, driveway, or landscaping.
Depending on the condition of the pipe, our team may recommend:
A camera inspection helps determine the most efficient and least invasive solution.
Mainstream stands behind the quality of our plumbing work. Our team provides clear recommendations and upfront pricing before any repair begins, so you know what to expect.
Our workmanship is backed by the Mainstream Guarantee, giving you added confidence that the job will be completed properly and professionally.
If you’re looking for long-term protection, our Care Club maintenance program helps reduce future plumbing issues through preventive service and priority scheduling.
Mainstream offers comprehensive plumbing services designed to keep your home’s water systems operating safely and reliably.
Our plumbing services include:
Whether you’re facing an urgent issue or planning an upgrade, our licensed plumbers are equipped to handle projects of all sizes.
Homes in Spokane Valley rely on a variety of heating and cooling systems, and the right service depends on the equipment you have installed.
Mainstream services and installs common residential HVAC systems, including:
If you’re unsure what type of system you have, our technicians can identify it quickly and recommend the best next steps for your home.
Every electrical circuit in your home is designed to carry a specific amount of electricity. When the total demand from plugged-in devices exceeds that limit, the circuit becomes overloaded.
This isn’t a defect or a failure. It’s a math problem: too much demand, not enough capacity.
When an overload occurs, your breaker trips and shuts off power. That interruption can be inconvenient, but it’s also doing exactly what it’s supposed to do—protecting your home from serious electrical damage.
As temperatures drop, homeowners often supplement their heating with portable electric devices. Space heaters, electric blankets, heated mattress pads, and similar items all draw a large amount of power.
The problem starts when multiple high-draw devices are plugged into outlets that share the same circuit. Even if everything works fine at first, running them together for extended periods can push the circuit past its safe limit.
This is one of the most common reasons Mainstream electricians see tripped breakers during colder months.
A tripping breaker is not a nuisance—it’s a warning.
When a breaker trips due to overload, it’s preventing:
Repeated tripping means the circuit is being stressed regularly, which can shorten its lifespan and lead to more serious electrical issues over time.
Homeowners may notice:
These are signs that the circuit is working harder than it should.
One of the simplest ways to prevent overloads is to spread high-demand devices across different circuits. For example, space heaters should be plugged into separate outlets that are not sharing the same breaker.
Avoid using extension cords or power strips for heating devices, and never run multiple heaters on a single circuit. If you’re unsure which outlets share a circuit, an electrician can safely identify and label them.
If your breakers trip frequently, even when you’re careful about how many devices you’re using, it’s often a sign that the circuit itself is under strain or no longer matched to your home’s electrical demands. This is especially common in older homes or during winter, when temporary heating devices add extra load.
A licensed electrician can inspect the circuit, identify whether the issue is simple wear or a capacity problem, and recommend the right fix. In many cases, a circuit breaker repair can resolve repeated tripping. In others, a circuit breaker upgrade may be needed to safely handle modern electrical use and prevent long-term damage to your system.
Addressing the issue early helps protect your wiring, your appliances, and your home—while ensuring your electrical system stays reliable when you need it most.
Both systems are designed to protect your home, but they do it in different ways. Understanding the difference between circuit breaker and fuse setups can help you decide whether your panel is still working for your household — or holding it back.
Let’s break it down in plain language.
At the core, both systems stop electricity when it becomes unsafe. The difference comes down to how they do it.
A fuse box uses single-use fuses. Inside each fuse is a thin metal strip that melts when too much current flows through it. When that strip melts, the circuit opens and power shuts off.
That’s the classic fuse breaker action you’ll find in older homes. To restore power, the blown fuse must be replaced with the exact correct type and amp rating.
A circuit breaker panel uses resettable switches instead of replaceable parts. When there’s an overload or short, internal thermal-magnetic components trip the breaker. Once the cause is fixed, you flip the switch back on.
That convenience – along with better safety options – is why breakers became the modern standard.
Think of breaker vs fuse this way: With fuses, you’re replacing a part every time something goes wrong. With breakers, you investigate the issue and reset the system. That’s one of the biggest reasons homeowners prefer breakers vs fuses today.
You don’t need to be an electrician to spot the difference. Open your electrical panel and look for these clues:
Electricians call both types an electrical panel, but in everyday conversation, fuse box vs breaker box tells you which generation you’re dealing with.
Yes, and we see them often.
Many homes built before the 1960s in Spokane and Northern Idaho still rely on fuse boxes. When installed correctly and paired with the proper fuses for house wiring, they can provide basic protection.
The issue isn’t age alone. It’s today’s electrical demand.
Modern homes draw far more power than homes did decades ago. Heat pumps, larger HVAC systems, EV chargers, hot tubs, workshops, and home offices all put extra strain on older systems. That’s when the difference between circuit breaker and fuse setups really starts to matter.
If you’re constantly juggling appliances or avoiding running certain things at the same time, your panel may be undersized for how you live today.
When homeowners compare fuse box vs circuit breaker, safety features usually tip the scale.
Modern breaker panels support:
Most older fuse panels can’t easily integrate these protections without major modifications. That limitation alone is why many homeowners move away from breakers vs fuses when planning upgrades.
| Feature | Fuse Box | Circuit Breaker Panel |
|---|---|---|
| How it protects | Fuse element melts to open the circuit | Resettable switch trips, then can be turned back on |
| Restoring power | Replace with the correct fuse size and type | Fix the cause and reset the breaker |
| Safety features | Limited AFCI/GFCI integration | Supports AFCI, GFCI, and surge protection |
| Expandability | Often limited capacity and space | Designed to add circuits and upgrades |
| Regional context | Still found in older Spokane and North Idaho homes | Standard in modern builds and upgrades |
| Typical recommendation | Maintain with correct fuses until ready to upgrade | Preferred for modern residential use |
Many homeowners upgrade when their electrical needs grow. It may be time to consider a breaker panel if you’re dealing with:
A well-maintained fuse box isn’t automatically dangerous, but when comparing breaker vs fuse for long-term use, modern panels offer more flexibility and peace of mind.
Since 2000, Mainstream Electric, Heating, Cooling & Plumbing has helped Spokane and Northern Idaho homeowners make smart, safe electrical decisions. We believe in straight answers, clear options, and treating your home like it’s our own.
Whether you’re comparing fuse box vs breaker box, trying to understand the difference between circuit breaker and fuse systems, or looking for reliable electricians in Post Falls, our team takes the time to explain your options and help you plan with confidence.
You can count on Mainstream for safety, reliability, and work done right—today and for the years ahead.
Orangeburg pipe, sometimes called bituminous fiber pipe, was made by layering wood pulp and paper, saturating it with coal tar, and compressing it into a rigid tube. It was manufactured in Orangeburg, New York, which is where the name comes from.
Compared to cast iron or clay, Orangeburg was lightweight and fast to install, making it attractive during periods of rapid homebuilding. Over time, however, the material breaks down. As it ages, Orangeburg can soften, blister inside, lose its round shape, and separate at seams, allowing roots to enter.
These changes often lead to slow drains, recurring clogs, and, in some cases, pipe collapse. Because the pipe is buried, the most reliable way to confirm Orangeburg without digging is a sewer camera inspection, which allows a plumber to identify its layered, fibrous interior and assess its condition.
Orangeburg pipe is made from layers of wood pulp and paper bonded together with coal tar and compressed into shape. The tar acted as a binder and moisture barrier, while the paper provided structure. When new, it held up reasonably well for its cost and weight.
Over time, moisture, soil pressure, temperature changes, and roots take a toll. The pipe can go out of round, develop internal blisters, soften, and allow roots to push through weak points. These durability issues are why Orangeburg was eventually phased out in favor of stronger materials like clay, cast iron, PVC, and ABS.
Orangeburg pipe was commonly installed from the late 1930s through the early 1970s, especially for residential sewer laterals, the underground line that carries wastewater from a home to the public sewer. Builders favored it because it was affordable, light, and quick to install, which mattered during large housing booms and material shortages.
Spokane and surrounding communities saw steady growth from the 1940s through the 1960s, right when Orangeburg was widely available. Many homes built during that time still have their original sewer laterals, which means Orangeburg pipe remains common underground today.
Even in homes where part of the sewer line was replaced, short sections of Orangeburg can still remain near the house or under driveways. A camera inspection is the only way to know for sure..
Above ground, Orangeburg pipe appears dark brown or black with a dull, fibrous surface. Inside, it looks rough compared to modern plastic pipe. Most residential lines are 4 to 6 inches in diameter.
Here’s how it compares to other materials:
During a camera inspection, plumbers look for flattened sections, internal blisters, separating layers, and root intrusion, all common signs of Orangeburg.
Orangeburg is usually found in the sewer lateral running from the house to the street. It may pass under the yard, driveway, or foundation.
Clues that Orangeburg may be present include:
If you’re unsure, a professional sewer camera inspection is the most reliable way to identify the pipe and evaluate its condition.
Orangeburg pipe typically lasts 30 to 50 years, which is significantly shorter than modern sewer materials. As it ages, the pipe softens, loses its round shape, and separates at seams. This deterioration allows roots to enter and restrict flow, often leading to repeated clogs and eventual collapse.
If you’re researching Orangeburg because you suspect a problem, early inspection can help you plan repairs or replacement before an emergency occurs.
There’s no need to panic, but awareness matters. Some Orangeburg lines continue to function for a time, especially in stable soil with fewer roots. However, given the material’s age and known weaknesses, monitoring and planning ahead is wise.
Common warning signs include recurring backups, returning root clogs, sewer odors, damp or sunken areas in the yard, and camera findings such as flattening or internal blistering.
Compared to modern options like PVC or ABS, Orangeburg is more prone to deformation, root intrusion, and collapse. Newer materials offer smoother interiors, stronger structure, and significantly longer lifespans when installed correctly.
| Material | Typical Traits | Common Issues | Relative Longevity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Orangeburg (bituminous fibre) | Lightweight, layered paper and wood pulp bonded with tar | Deformation, blisters, delamination, root intrusion, collapse | Shorter lifespan (often 30–50 years) |
| PVC/ABS | Rigid plastic, smooth interior, corrosion-resistant | Improper joints, damage from heavy loads if not properly bedded | Long lifespan when installed correctly |
| Vitrified clay | Ceramic sections, chemically resistant | Root intrusion at joints, brittle if disturbed | Long lifespan with intact joints |
| Cast iron | Strong, heavy, good for certain applications | Corrosion, scale buildup over decades | Long lifespan; depends on environment |
If you suspect Orangeburg pipe:
Orangeburg pipe was affordable and easy to install in its time, but it wasn’t built to last for decades. If your home was built in the mid-20th century, confirming what’s in your sewer line can help you avoid unexpected problems down the road.
A professional camera inspection shows exactly what condition the pipe is in and gives you a clear path forward. You’ll know whether monitoring makes sense or if it’s time to plan for repair or replacement, on your terms, not during an emergency.
At Mainstream, we believe in solutions, not surprises. When you call us, we’ll explain what we see, answer your questions in plain language, and help you make the right call for your home. If you’re unsure what’s under your yard or you’re starting to notice warning signs, reach out to Mainstream and get clear answers you can trust.
Several factors influence the cost of replacing a circuit breaker. The most important is the type of breaker being installed. Standard breakers are typically quicker to replace, while specialty breakers — such as GFCI or AFCI breakers required by modern electrical codes — involve additional materials and testing.
The condition of your electrical panel also matters. Older panels or panels showing signs of wear, overheating, or corrosion may require additional adjustments to ensure the new breaker operates safely and reliably. In some cases, compatibility issues or code updates may need to be addressed during the replacement.
Smart breakers, which offer features like energy monitoring or enhanced safety controls, can also affect pricing due to added setup and configuration requirements.
At Mainstream Electric, Heating, Cooling & Plumbing, electricians take time to evaluate your panel, explain your options clearly, and provide upfront pricing before any work begins. This ensures homeowners understand what’s needed, why it matters, and how the repair supports long-term electrical safety — without unexpected surprises.
New AC condensers are shipped from the manufacturer with refrigerant already inside the system. This factory charge is intended to support a standard refrigerant line length, typically around 15 feet, which works for many straightforward installations.
That said, many homes require longer line sets due to layout, attic placement, multi-story construction, or the distance between the outdoor condenser and indoor air handler. When the line set exceeds the factory standard, additional refrigerant must be added to ensure proper cooling, efficiency, and system reliability.
Incorrect refrigerant levels can cause a range of issues, including reduced cooling capacity, higher energy costs, compressor strain, and long-term damage to the system. Too little refrigerant can prevent your AC from keeping up during hot weather, while too much can lead to pressure problems and component failure.
This is why professional installation matters. At Mainstream Electric, Heating, Cooling & Plumbing, our licensed HVAC technicians measure, adjust, and verify refrigerant levels during every AC installation. We follow manufacturer specifications and real-world performance testing to ensure your system is properly charged, balanced, and ready to perform efficiently from day one.
Your air conditioner removes moisture from the air as it cools your home. That moisture collects as condensation and must safely drain away from the system. The condensate drain line is designed to carry this water out of your home without causing damage.
In most homes, the drain line exits near the foundation and releases water outdoors. In other cases, it may connect to a floor drain in a basement, utility room, or mechanical space. No matter the setup, the line must maintain a consistent downward slope so gravity can move the water away from the system.
If a condensate drain line is poorly placed, clogged, or improperly sloped, water can back up into the air handler. This can lead to water damage, mold growth, musty odors, and even system shutdowns if safety switches are triggered. These issues are especially common during peak cooling season when your AC is running the most.
At Mainstream Electric, Heating, Cooling & Plumbing, we inspect the condensate drain line during every AC repair and service visit. Our technicians make sure it’s routed correctly, draining freely, and not putting your home at risk for moisture-related problems. Preventing condensate issues early helps protect your system, your home, and your indoor air quality.
Freon, or refrigerant, must be installed by a licensed HVAC professional using specialized tools to measure and adjust system pressure correctly. Adding too much or too little refrigerant can damage the AC system and lead to costly repairs. If refrigerant levels are low, a leak must be located and repaired before the system is safely recharged.
Adding refrigerant, commonly referred to as “Freon,” to an AC system is not a simple refill and should never be treated as a DIY project. Refrigerant operates under precise pressure levels that are specific to each system, and adjusting those levels requires specialized gauges, recovery equipment, and technical training. Even small mistakes can damage the compressor, reduce cooling performance, or cause the system to fail entirely.
One of the biggest misconceptions homeowners have is that refrigerant gets “used up” over time. In a properly functioning AC system, refrigerant circulates in a closed loop. If levels are low, it usually means there is a leak somewhere in the system. Adding refrigerant without locating and repairing that leak only provides temporary relief and can lead to repeated breakdowns, higher energy bills, and more expensive repairs later.
For Spokane homeowners, refrigerant issues often become noticeable during the summer, when AC systems run longer and harder. That increased demand doesn’t cause refrigerant loss on its own, but it does make existing leaks or pressure problems more obvious. Diagnosing those issues correctly requires both experience and an understanding of how systems perform in Eastern Washington’s climate.
Licensed HVAC professionals are also required to follow strict environmental regulations when handling refrigerant. Improper handling can release refrigerant into the air, which is harmful to the environment and illegal without proper certification.
Mainstream’s certified technicians inspect the entire AC system, verify refrigerant pressures, locate and repair leaks when present, and recharge the system only to manufacturer specifications. This ensures Spokane-area AC systems operate safely, efficiently, and reliably, without the risks that come with DIY or improper refrigerant handling.
